In the interest of exploiting remembered pleasures, here are my seven favorite cabbie-recommended dishes to date – in random order. If you’re anywhere near the Biggest Apple, I hope you have a chance to try them:

1. Chicken momos at Hanami: I can’t get these dumplings off my mind. Is it the delicacy of their skins? Is it because they swim in butter? Or is it their dipping sauce – made with tomatoes and Himalayan black pepper smuggled over from Nepal? Namaste to cabbie Nyima Tsering, who steered me to these steamy beauties. (Hanami Japanese and Nepali Restaurant, 39-11 Queens Blvd., Sunnyside, Tel. 718-361-8232, Open: 7 days)

2. Mofongo con camarones at Sofrito: Pork and green plantains are a magic combination, and there is no greater proof than the mofongo at Sofrito. Topped with giant prawns and a light tomato sauce, this dish is an Afro-Puerto Rican masterpiece worthy of super cabbie Iris Javed. (Sofrito, 400 E 57th St. – Midtown East, Tel. (212) 754-5999, Open 7 days)

3. Hot and sour soup at Tangra Masala: One of Mizanur the cabbie’s favorite dishes. Cilantro, black mushroom, cabbage, tofu, and chicken are turned up to full volume in this chili pepper-charged soup that no amount of cornstarch can tame. Every spoonful is a (happy) shout to the palate. (Tangra Masala, 87-09 Grand Ave., Elmhurst, Queens, Tel. 718-803-2298/718-803-2381, Open 7 days)

4. Agedashi tofu at Tokyo II Japanese Kitchen & Sushi Bar: Imagine a gorgeously crunchy tempura batter encasing silky cubes of creamy tofu. Dipping these cubes in a reduction of soy sauce, ginger, scallions and vinegar – and biting into bursts of fresh ginger and green onion along the way – is to consume a rare communion of flavor and texture. Cheers to Wendy for telling me about this dish – I hope she hasn’t been in any accidents since I last rode with her. (Tokyo II Japanese Kitchen & Sushi Bar, 38-01 31st St., Long Island City, Queens, Tel: 718-472-3778, Closed Sundays)

5. Grilled tilapia and jollof rice at Papaye: Godfred knew exactly what he was doing when he ordered this Ghanaian classic for me after our journey to the Bronx. The rice is loaded with palm oil, cayenne pepper and tomatoes and served with a smoky chili relish. The fish is grilled and served whole – head, tail, skin and bones – and so tender you can cut it with a plastic fork. (Papaye Restaurant, 2300 Grand Concourse (at 184th St.), Fordham, Bronx, Tel: 718-676-0771)

6. Masala dosa at Ganapati Temple: Ganapati Temple is cabbie cum astrologer Vinod Dogra’s favorite place for dosas, the rice flour and black lentil crepes beloved throughout India. The masala dosa is the mildest on the temple’s menu, but it still pushed sweat through my pores. Stuffed with potato-onion curry and dipped in coconut chutney and sambar, this is the next best thing to eating on the streets of the subcontinent. (Ganapati Temple Canteen, 45-57 Bowne St., Flushing, Queens, Tel. 718-460-8493, Open 7 days)

7. Shio Cha-Suya Tsuke-men at Ramen Setagaya: Cabbie/film editor Eric Rodriguez delivered us to this starch lover’s dream: a giant bowl of fresh ramen to dunk in a snappy broth with rice vinegar, pork and scallops. I envy the East Villagers who live near these noodles. (Ramen Setagaya, 141 First Ave., St. Mark’s, Tel: 212-529-2740, Open 7 days)

What about you? Did you discover any dishes that worked their way into your summer taste memories?

Update: Taxi Gourmet reader Craig K. (alias Superstar) was kind enough to create a map of all seven of these delicious spots. Click here to check it out

Not because the place looked shabby (I’ve got a soft spot for holes-in-the-wall, as long as the food is good). Not because there were no Zagat decals or readers’ choice awards on the windows.

No, I would have avoided Tokyo II because the place was only half full, because none of its customers looked as if they had roots in the motherland, and, most of all, because the empty sushi bar advertised several rolls with cream cheese (Call me heartless, but I think Philly and Nori should’ve split up long ago).

In other words, if the lady cab driver who nearly caused an accident when she pulled over to retrieve me hadn’t delivered me to the lunch haunt around the corner from her ex-taxi garage, my prejudices would have led me far away from this restaurant.

But not only did Wendy guide me to Tokyo II (after forgetting to turn on the meter until we were halfway through our four minute journey), she told me exactly what to order: Korean ramen soup (“If you like spicy.”) and Agedashi tofu (“Make sure you get the sauce on the side.”).

The precision of her instructions struck me. Only a true food lover would be so adamant about ordering a certain dish in a certain way. Or so I hoped.

I took a seat at the faux oak bar – fully stocked and ready to service cabbies from nearby garages – studied faded posters of Mt. Fuji, cast a covetous glance at a man’s curry rice, and ordered my lunch exactly as the taxi driver had advised.

One taste of Agedashi tofu dashed my prejudices, confirmed my hopes, and endeared me to Wendy forever.

Imagine a paper-thin batter, gorgeously crunchy, encasing silky, creamy cubes of tofu (The contrast of these textures alone was enough to tear my attention away from the curry rice). Dipping the tofu in a concentrated broth of soy sauce, ginger, scallions and vinegar – and biting into bursts of fresh ginger and green onion along the way – was to consume a rare communion of flavor and texture. Simple, understated and $4.95.

Wendy’s spicy Korean ramen ($7.95) had a similar alchemy. Every element – spinach, cabbage, enoki mushrooms, bamboo shoots, scallions, carrots – gave to and received from the chili-chicken broth. Each ingredient retained its integrity, but was better for being part of the ramen. If only our relationships could be so healthy.

The soup’s only flaw was overcooked, under-seasoned pork. I’d order it again, but I’d try it with beef or chicken – and keep in mind that a single order is enough for two meals (provided you don’t wait too long for the noodles to soak up the broth).

Curry rice man cleared out, Tracy Chapman gave way to Donna Summer, and I thought about something Yoda once said to Luke Skywalker as I slurped my noodle soup: You must unlearn what you have learned.

If Tokyo II offers any proof, this is as true on a taxi adventure as it is in Jedi training.

Tokyo II Japanese Kitchen & Sushi Bar
38-01 31st St., Long Island City, Queens
Tel: 718-472-3778
Open: Mon-Fri, 11am-11pm (lunch break 3:30-4:30pm); Sat 1:30pm-11:30pm; Closed Sundays
Soups/Salads/Appetizers: $1.75-9.95
Lunch Specials (including curry rice and Korean ramen): $7.95-8.95
Entrees: $7.95-12.95
Credit cards accepted