Buenos Aires Adventures

Last Taxi in Buenos Aires

June 10, 2009
Last Taxi in Buenos Aires If I’d held a casting call for the ideal cabbie to drive my last taxi adventure in Buenos Aires, I couldn’t have found anyone to play the part more convincingly than Julio Verón. After 18 years driving a bus and 26 years as a taxista, the sweater-vested sixty-something oozed urban wisdom – and his instincts

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Posted in Buenos Aires Adventures, Constitución, bife de chorizo, lasagna, taxi churrasquería | No Comments »

The Spanish Corner

June 1, 2009
The Spanish Corner “I don’t have very sophisticated food tastes,” the taxi driver said, “I really like eating at the Coto food court in Ciudadela.” When I explained that we were looking for something a little more soulful than a superstore cafeteria, the taxista radioed his fellow cabbies for help. No one responded. I tried to beat back my

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Posted in Buenos Aires Adventures, Paternal, Rincon Hispano, Spanish, Villa del Parque, cazuela, merluza shrimp stew | No Comments »

The Golden Gnocchi

May 22, 2009
The Golden Gnocchi Buenos Aires, 1955. An Italian immigrant named Luigi opens a nondescript cantina on the corner of Billinghurst and Valentín Gomez in Almagro. Musicians and singers – including tango-singing legend Roberto Goyeneche – begin to gather there. Soccer stars, poets and painters follow. Don Carlos flourishes, but Luigi grows tired of the glam and sells the

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Posted in Almagro, Buenos Aires Adventures, Don Carlos, gnocchi, italian | 2 Comments »

Post-Crisis Pizza

May 7, 2009
Post-Crisis Pizza If the Judeo-Christian world divides history between the periods before and after the birth of Christ, I’d venture that many Argentine taxi drivers divide their lives between the time before and after the country’s 2001 economic crisis. Marcelo, the blue-eyed taxista with a Tasmanian Devil suction-cupped to his windshield, counts himself among these crisis-influenced cabbies. A

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Posted in 2001 crisis argentina, Buenos Aires Adventures, Congreso, La Continental, pizza | No Comments »

Cantina Gone Bust

May 1, 2009
Cantina Gone Bust From time to time, my pursuit of all food that’s taxi-related goes bust, as was the case on today’s failed mission to La Cantina de los Taxistas. For weeks, I’ve been fantasizing about paying a visit to this cabbie-friendly restaurant, hoping to taste some authentic Italo-Argentine food (they’re allegedly famous for their cannelloni) and harvest

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Posted in Buenos Aires Adventures, Cafes and Restaurants of Buenos Aires, La Cantina de los Taxistas, cab, restaurants, taxi | No Comments »

A Taxi Adventure Marathon with The Guardian

April 27, 2009
A few Saturdays ago, The Guardian travel writer Vicky Baker and I embarked on a taxi adventure marathon in Buenos Aires. True to the spirit of the taxi adventures to date, we met three remarkable cabbies who showed us three excellent restaurants far off the city’s tourist circuit: El Viejo Derby (Av. Martin Garcia 401

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Posted in Buenos Aires Adventures, banchero, el viejo derby, medialunas, parrilla gonza, pizza, steak, the guardian | No Comments »

Lady Cab Driver

April 21, 2009
Lady Cab Driver Tennessee Williams said that “Some mystery should be left in the revelation of character in a play, just as a great deal of mystery is always left in the revelation of character in life.” I would add that a great deal of mystery is always left in the revelation of character in a taxicab. Especially

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Posted in Boedo, Buenos Aires Adventures, Spiagge di Napoli, fusilli, italian, pasta, rabas, sorrentino | No Comments »

Walter Rides Again

March 30, 2009
Walter Rides Again Six months ago, taxista Walter was shot four times while he was changing a flat tire in Wilde, in the southern suburbs of Buenos Aires. After forty days in the hospital, Walter dragged himself home, lay in bed, and waited for his wounds to heal. Friday night, for the first time since the shooting, he got

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Posted in Buenos Aires Adventures, San Cristóbal, bife de chorizo, el nuevo castel's, flan, queso y dulce, suprema a la suiza | No Comments »

Follow the Cow

March 24, 2009
Follow the Cow As part of their ongoing protest the against the government’s agricultural policies, Argentine farmers declared a seven day moratorium on the sale of beef and grains as of midnight Friday, March 20. In light of impending meat shortages, my co-adventurers and I were happy to follow the cow to one of taxista Charly’s favorite Buenos

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Posted in Buenos Aires Adventures, Siga la Vaca, blood sausage, budin de pan, chorizo, costanera norte, parrilla, steak | No Comments »

Diego’s Hangout

March 17, 2009
Diego’s Hangout “Driving a taxi is the most stressful job I’ve ever had,” Diego said on a recent ride from Ezeiza airport. But after three years behind the wheel, the thirty-year-old cabbie with a rhinestone in his ear has developed some coping mechanisms. He’s traded psychotherapy for gardening. He plays soccer for at least two hours per week.

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Posted in Buenos Aires Adventures, Palermo, Punto y Banca, empanadas, fugazzetta, pizza | No Comments »