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Posts Tagged ‘ Belgrano ’
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Behind the Door at 2901
Underworlds abound in Buenos Aires. In its milongas (tango clubs), in its shantytowns, in its discos, bars, and restaurants. This is a city that wears many masks, a place that houses secret rooms behind simple facades.
Sometimes the city reveals its secrets to me: a signless bakery here, an underground milonga there, a speakeasy here,
Lazy Lunching at La Vaca Pampa
Two twenty-something men slice into steaks at a sidewalk table, their mugs of beer half empty, their conversation on pause.
Inside, a family of four chatters around a bottle of wine and ignores the basket of rolls growing stale beneath cold blasts of conditioned air.
At the table next door, I finger the edge of a
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Ode to the Pit Stop
Not 60 seconds after picking me up in front of a tire store in the far reaches of Belgrano, the cabbie with the aquamarine eyes knows exactly where we’re headed for something good to eat.
“They’ve got everything at this place,” he says, “Really good pastas, steaks, even pizza. But the great thing is
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Metropolis in the Tangopolis
My homecoming taxi adventure was starting out with a bang.
“I have colon problems,” the taxista said when I threw out my would-you-please-take-me-someplace-good-to-eat request, “So I haven’t eaten out in months.”
“Besides,” he added, patting his slim belly, “You don’t eat what we eat.”
“Excuse me?” I said. Who was ‘you’ and who was ‘we’?
“You don’t want
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Four Questions and Fujisan
“Where are you from?”
“What are you doing in Buenos Aires?”
“Do you have family here?”
“Are you single?”
If I start talking to any taxi driver in Buenos Aires, I’ll bet my tango shoes that these Four Questions will come up – in that exact order.
This afternoon, I was fortunate enough to get in a cab with
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