If the Judeo-Christian world divides history between the periods before and after the birth of Christ, I’d venture that many Argentine taxi drivers divide their lives between the time before and after the country’s 2001 economic crisis.
Marcelo, the blue-eyed taxista with a Tasmanian Devil suction-cupped to his windshield, counts himself among these crisis-influenced cabbies.
A
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A few Saturdays ago, The Guardian travel writer Vicky Baker and I embarked on a taxi adventure marathon in Buenos Aires.
True to the spirit of the taxi adventures to date, we met three remarkable cabbies who showed us three excellent restaurants far off the city’s tourist circuit: El Viejo Derby (Av. Martin Garcia 401
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“Driving a taxi is the most stressful job I’ve ever had,” Diego said on a recent ride from Ezeiza airport.
But after three years behind the wheel, the thirty-year-old cabbie with a rhinestone in his ear has developed some coping mechanisms.
He’s traded psychotherapy for gardening. He plays soccer for at least two hours per week.
Tags: Buenos Aires Food Adventures, empanadas, fugazzetta, Palermo, pizza, Punto y Banca
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In observance of the year-end gringo tradition of taking stock and ranking what comes to mind, I’ve compiled this list of the top 10 taxista-recommended restaurants of 2008.
As I reflect on all of the wonderful things I’ve tasted this year, I’d like to take this moment to thank the taxi drivers of Buenos Aires,
Tags: Albamonte, Buenos Aires Food Adventures, Don Lechón, don zoilo, El Litoral, El Puestito del Tío, la mezzetta, la tranquerita, la vaca pampa, locro, Mi Sueño, pizza, sausage sandwich, steak, top 10 restaurants
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Ding-dong, the restaurante de barrio is dead. At least that’s what taxista Nicolás would have us believe.
After attempting to take my co-adventurer and I to no less than 10 guidebook-friendly restaurants (and insisting that we weren’t dressed conservatively enough to go to his favorite cabbie hangout), we finally surrendered and ended up at El
Tags: Buenos Aires Food Adventures, el cuartito, fainá, moscato, pizza, Tribunales
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When Martín the taxista dropped me off at Don Lechón during last week’s taxi adventure, he was kind enough to let me in on another secret: La Mezzetta.
“Everyone is nuts about this pizzeria,” he said, “It’s not my favorite – I don’t like their dough. But you should probably try it.”
Try it I did
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¨I´ve been around for over 60 years,¨taxista Antonio told us, ¨I know a few things.¨
He´d picked up my food questing partner and me near the subte station on Avenida Callao, balking at first at my request to take us somewhere good to eat.
¨Well, any restaurant that doesn´t have beef, no sirve,¨ he pronounced.
And so
Tags: Buenos Aires Food Adventures, Chacarita, pasta, pizza, Ristorante Albamonte
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The following entry is rated R, as it contains adult material.
“Aren’t you going to invite me to eat with you?”
“Only if it’s lunch and nothing more,” I said.
“No kisses?”
“No kisses.”
“Not even a kiss on the cheek?”
“This is how it’s going to be,” I said, “We have lunch. I take the
Tags: Boedo, Buenos Aires Food Adventures, fugazzetta, pizza, Pizzeria San Antonio
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“It’s all taxistas and all they serve is fast food,” Guillermo, the thirty-something cabbie, shakes his gelled head, “It’s not a place for you. There’s no way I’m taking you there. ”
“There” is Guillermo’s usual lunch spot: the gas station on the corner of Thames and Charcas in the Palermo Viejo neighborhood.
Although the prospect
Tags: Buenos Aires Food Adventures, Chacarita, el imperio, fugazzetta, pizza
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Flirtation is a fact of life in Argentina. Whether you’re walking down the street, buying a pack of gum, wrangling with the bureaucrats at immigration, or getting you’re teeth cleaned, the men in this country openly exercise their right to pour on the charm.
Taxistas are no exception – in fact, I’ve grown so accustomed
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